Monday, August 29, 2011

Window Safety Tips

Windows are a vital component of every household. They provide us with a view of the outside world, from the comfort of the inside. We open them up during the hotter months for fresh breathing air, while closing them during the winter to insulate us from the cold. And in the event of an emergency, windows act as a secondary exit option to escape from a dangerous situation.

However beneficial and vital they are to our lives, windows also pose a great risk to children. While accidental window falls and injuries aren't an everyday occurrence, they do happen. And window cords also pose a safety threat. Nearly 200 infants and young children have perished since 1990 due to accidental window cord strangling, according to the Window Covering Safety Council (WSCS). More of fire rated windows.

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Despite these risks, taking the proper safety measures can reduce the likelihood of window-related injuries. It is also important to remember the value of maintaining and practicing a family emergency plan.

Practice an emergency exit plan

In the event of a fire, windows act as a secondary means of escape from a burning building. Every home should have a fire escape plan in place that includes two exit options for each room. Not only is it important to develop an emergency plan, it is vital that you practice it with your family as well. This will allow your children to safely learn how to exit from a window in emergency situations.
Keep the unforeseen threat of an emergency situation in mind when performing window maintenance upkeep. Painted or nailed shut windows lessen your exit options in situations where their accessibility could be vital. Avoid installing air conditioning units in windows that are the only emergency exit option in a particular room.

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If you're thinking about installing safety guards or fall prevention devices on your windows, make sure to also have a release mechanism in place so they can be opened in emergency situations. Security bars or similar devices make windows useless during emergencies if they don't have a release mechanism. Contact your local fire department or building code supervisor for information on proper window guard placement.

Cordless window shades

Because of the strong strangulation risk window cords pose onto small children, the best remedy is to remove them from your home and install cordless window shades instead.

All window coverings purchased before 2001 - when new window safety standards came into effect - should be replaced as well. One feature common on several new models is the break-thru safety tassel, which is designed to break if a child becomes entangled in the cord loop. Some new windows actually have blinds built into the interior that can be opened and closed through operation of a lever - removing the risk of strangulation altogether.

If money or other factors prevent you from buying new window shades, consider retrofitting your current ones. Free retro kits can be ordered through the WSCS Web site. The link can be found at the bottom of this article.

Additionally, it is important to never place any cribs, playpens, beds or any type of low-standing furniture near a window, especially in your child's room. When possible, the best option is to place all child-related furniture against a windowless wall.

Discourage play near windows

When children are around, make sure your windows are locked and closed. If you need fresh air open windows inaccessible to children. Keep anything that can be used as a climbing aid, such as furniture, away from the windows as well.

As said before, these measures are not a guaranteed safeguard from window falls and related injuries. While they do help in reducing the likelihood of a window-related injury, adult supervision is always the most effective tool in ensuring child safety around windows.



Friday, August 12, 2011

Air Sealing Tips For the Home

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Air sealing is a low cost, do it yourself project that can save you up to 20% on your heating and cooling costs according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Some homeowners are concerned with making the home to tight. This is unlikely in an older home. If you are concerned with the air quality, hire a home energy rater to test your home.

We will start in the attic and work our way down the house and to the exterior.

Attic

Seal penetrations in the wall plates -- Move back the insulation enough to expose the wall plates. Seal around wires and pipes with caulk or spray foam such as Great Stuff. This is a good place to use a fire rated caulk or foam product. In most areas it is required for new construction. Check with your local code official. Caulk both sides of the wall plate where it meets the drywall or plaster with latex caulk.

Chases should be properly sealed off and were almost always left open in older homes allowing air to easily pass though. Use plywood or drywall to cap off the chase. Cut around wires and pipes as close as possible and seal the remaining voids with caulk or spray foam.

Attic hatches - These are often a big loss of air in the home. Install an attic tent or build a box out of foam insulation board to cover the hatch. The high r foam with a foil face works the best. Use a foil face mechanical tape to hold the box together. Do not use duct tape. It will come apart in time. Also use a foam weatherstrip around the hatch door when possible. If your home has a whole house fan, build a box for it too when its not in use.

Living Space

Electrical boxes -- Caulk switch and receptacle boxes. Turn off the circuit breaker and test to be sure the power is off. Remove the wall plate with a screwdriver and caulk between the box and the drywall with latex caulk. Install a foam weatherstrip gasket and replace the wall plate. Use a damp rag to clean up any excess caulk from the wall. Turn the circuit breaker back on.

Plumbing pipes -- Check under all sinks where the pipes go through the wall. Slide back the escutcheons (trim plate) and seal around the water and drain pipes with caulk or spray foam.

Heating and cooling registers -- Remove the grill with a screwdriver and caulk or spray foam between the duct work and the drywall or flooring material. Replace the grill.

Dryer vent -- Caulk or spray foam between the metal pipe and the drywall.

Basement/Crawlspace

Seal penetrations in wall plates -- Same as in the attic.

Chases -- Same as in the attic.

Sill plates -- Seal where the sill plate meets the foundation with caulk or spray foam.

Exterior

Seal penetrations in the siding -- Caulk around electrical wires and conduits, hose bibs and air conditioning line sets with a good quality siding or window and door caulk.

Windows and doors - Inspect around windows and doors for breaks in the caulking. Use a good quality latex or window and door caulk.

Caulking

Latex -- water clean up, paintable, usually white or clear.

Silicone -- difficult to clean up, usually not paintable, comes in white, clear, brown and other colors.

Fire retardant -- use at fire stopping locations such as sealing penetrations in wall plates or chases.

Spray Foams

Standard -- great for sealing voids around pipes and wires.

Window and door -- less expansion, prevents binding of windows and doors due to the foam over expanding and pressing on the jambs. Install a fire rated windows.

Fire retardant -- use at fire stopping locations such as sealing penetrations in wall plates or chases.

Spray foams can be messy! Use caution when applying. Allow it several hours to cure before trimming away excess. Very stick until cured.

Do not seal: weep holes (in brick and windows and doors including storm windows), the bottom edge of lap siding, attic or foundation vents.